LEIGH BOWERY: THE ART OF BECOMING




Some figures in fashion and art are influential. Others are inescapable, their presence lingering long after their physical form has vanished. Leigh Bowery was the latter, a walking rupture in reality, a self-made deity of excess, distortion, and theatrical provocation. More than a designer, more than a performer, he was his own creation, a living testament to the idea that identity is not inherited but invented, ripped apart, and reconstructed at will.

Bowery did not merely dress; he sculpted himself anew each day, his body a fluid, ever-morphing canvas. He was grotesque, mesmerising, intimidating, and utterly irresistible. In an era where London’s underground culture pulsed with raw creative energy, he stood at its centre, not as an observer, but as a force of nature. His presence challenged the boundaries between fashion, performance, and fine art, proving that style could be a weapon, a philosophy, and a work of art all at once.


TILLY

 



title Tilly
artist Kesewa Aboah 
year 2022
material paper, walnut oil, dry pigment and thread
size 60 × 40 in | 152.4 × 101.6 cm  

GIRL FEELS GOOD

 


                                                                                                                                                                           performed by FKA twigs
                                                                                                                                                                         ____________________

BELLOTTI´S LAST PERFORMANCE AT BALLY

 



Set against the backdrop of Milan's Torre Velasca, the runway show emphasized the collection's themes by contrasting the city's architectural formality with its expressive designs. Anchored in the German terms "Leistung" and "Aufführung," both translate to "performance" but with distinct nuances; "Leistung" pertains to achievement, while "Aufführung" relates to self-expression. This duality reflects a harmonious blend of Swiss precision and formality with wild, untamed elements, creating a dynamic interplay between structure and fluidity. Simone Bellotti's designs feature sculptural silhouettes juxtaposing tailored precision with textural richness. The collection showcases a variety of materials and textures, embodying the tension between the sober and the wild. 



Milko Šparemblek: The Alchemist of Movement

 



In the vast constellation of dance, some stars burn brightly for a moment, and then there are those whose light continues to glow, shaping the very contours of the art form. Milko Šparemblek belongs to the latter—a luminary whose choreography did not merely entertain but provoked, questioned, and redefined. His was a career sculpted by intellect and instinct, a seamless confluence of tradition and revolution, discipline and abandon.

To speak of Šparemblek is to speak of a man who understood dance as a language of the soul, where every gesture carried the weight of history, the urgency of the present, and the whispers of the future. Born in 1928, in Prevalje, Slovenija, his early years in Croatia provided the foundation for a lifelong dialogue between heritage and reinvention. But it was in Paris, in the avant-garde crucible of post-war Europe, that his artistry was truly forged.